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前段時(shí)間寫過一篇石門一路上即將最后消失的新華里，其實(shí)我一直牽掛著石門一路上曾經(jīng)有過的大中里,，因?yàn)檫@里是我最早拍攝動(dòng)遷地塊的地方,，同時(shí)也有我眾多的農(nóng)友和同事居住于此，最近終于聯(lián)系上了曾長(zhǎng)期居住在這里又曾經(jīng)在一起修過地球的陳鴻儀,，于是特意做了一次系統(tǒng)性的訪談,，從這位曾經(jīng)在石門一路上居住了幾十年的老朋友的角度來回憶一下曾經(jīng)這一片的石庫(kù)門建筑群。
為什么我要找陳鴻儀來聊聊石門一路呢,？這就要從我們?cè)?jīng)一起下鄉(xiāng)的經(jīng)歷來說起,，陳鴻儀與我同為1971年11月到上海市郊農(nóng)場(chǎng)-黃山茶林場(chǎng)務(wù)農(nóng)的知青，我們住在同一個(gè)“五等倉(cāng)”,，同一個(gè)班組,，上山修地球時(shí)在同一塊田里，每當(dāng)快到飯點(diǎn)了還沒有聽到收工的指令,，于是我們開始聊上海曾經(jīng)吃過的美食,，我講“巨富長(zhǎng)”的生活便利和美食，陳鴻儀則講石門一路上的美食,，當(dāng)時(shí)都是17,、8歲長(zhǎng)身體的年輕人，饑腸咕嚕下越聊越餓,，這個(gè)感覺一輩子都忘不了,，當(dāng)我考慮要講石門一路的故事，想到肯定非他莫屬,。
上面右側(cè)箭頭所指是原來車隊(duì)里同事焦根榮的家,，下面的箭頭就是永利坊7號(hào)，左面的箭頭是“仁仁堂國(guó)藥號(hào)”,，它的業(yè)主是永利坊13號(hào)陳蘊(yùn)珍,，在永利坊里有自己的診所，主要特色是自家秘制的膏藥,。 陳鴻儀的家在石門一路216弄永利坊7號(hào),，而大中里是石門一路214弄，原來216弄永利坊是有自己的弄堂口,，后來弄堂口做成店鋪了,，于是這條弄堂的住戶都從大中里的弄堂口出入，走進(jìn)大中里左手就可以拐進(jìn)永利坊,。
上面的箭頭所指的是華順里13號(hào),，原車隊(duì)同事徐天錚家，也是中國(guó)最負(fù)盛名的弈林“雙槍將”徐天利的家。下面紅框范圍內(nèi)是姚姓房地產(chǎn)商開發(fā)建造的兩條弄堂,。下右箭頭所指就是陳蘊(yùn)珍堂診所,。 比較有意思的是這條弄堂里門牌號(hào)都是單號(hào)，從1號(hào)至33號(hào)一共只有17個(gè)門牌號(hào),，大部分都是單開間二層樓的石庫(kù)門建筑,，1929年建造，開放商姓姚,，就住在這條弄堂最后一家33號(hào),，這是這條弄堂里最大的一間帶廂房的石庫(kù)門房子，姚老板同時(shí)投資了石門一路228弄錦興里,，有意思的是錦興里也只有單號(hào)，門牌號(hào)從1號(hào)到35號(hào),，從老地圖上可以看到其中17,、23、25,、27號(hào)是標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的三廂石庫(kù)門建筑,，部分單元的體量比永利坊大。
在這個(gè)片區(qū)中大中里的建筑等級(jí)較高,，從1939年老地圖上仔細(xì)看,，可以分析出其中不乏三廂石庫(kù)門建筑和兩廂石庫(kù)門建筑，弄堂內(nèi)建筑的間距也較寬,，走進(jìn)石庫(kù)門天井內(nèi)有一種深宅大院的感覺,。整條弄堂有近兩百個(gè)門牌號(hào)，所以在上海名氣很響,，幾乎代表了石門一路東側(cè)的所有居民區(qū),，當(dāng)時(shí)只要告訴三輪車夫到大中里肯定不會(huì)搞錯(cuò)。
上面箭頭所指是天樂坊靠近吳江路的弄堂口,，曾經(jīng)做過“靜中心”隔離病房,，當(dāng)時(shí)有老同學(xué)在安徽軍墾農(nóng)場(chǎng)感染肝炎后被收容于此。 大中里又是一條四通八達(dá)的大弄堂,，向東可以從青海路出入,，南面則有寶如坊，北面一直可以從天樂坊穿到吳江路,。（上次與“看懂上?！弊龌顒?dòng)時(shí)，有老師提供了一條重要的信息：時(shí)任上海電器科學(xué)研究所副所長(zhǎng)的江工程師婚后就居住在天樂坊）
1947年的上海百業(yè)指南上還能看到當(dāng)初林森路上的“新亞皮鞋店”,。 陳鴻儀家是永利坊中單開間的石庫(kù)門建筑,，從建筑等級(jí)上來看比大中里略遜一籌，這應(yīng)該是投資商的差異造成的，他家祖籍溫州,，祖父是教堂里的大廚,，子女六人，到了陳鴻儀父親一輩更是人丁興旺,，他父親有做皮鞋的手藝,，于是在淮海中路上開了一家皮鞋店（淮海中路400號(hào)新亞皮鞋店，它的西面那個(gè)“法大汽車行”就是后來的“淮國(guó)舊”,，造高架橋時(shí)推平了,，現(xiàn)在400號(hào)的位置應(yīng)該是南北高架東側(cè)天橋下），可以養(yǎng)活九個(gè)子女,。
2006年拍攝的永利坊,，當(dāng)時(shí)就一個(gè)數(shù)碼卡片機(jī)，33毫米的鏡頭,，也不敢貿(mào)然闖進(jìn)石庫(kù)門,，好在也留下了部分印記。 他們家是永利坊落成后就入住的原住民,，他父親帶著爺爺和嬢嬢一起住在這里,，爺爺住在亭子間，嬢嬢住樓上,，樓下就是他父親這一大家子,。他們家是租賃房，因?yàn)槭菑拿駠?guó)時(shí)期一直延續(xù)下來繳房租,，所以房租也就是三元多,，一直延續(xù)到改革開放。 陳鴻儀是家里排行老九,，最小的一個(gè),，上面的哥哥在不同的時(shí)間階段到外地闖蕩，家里的人口在不同時(shí)期都會(huì)有變化,，最擁擠的時(shí)候是他姐姐婚后無房退守娘家安了個(gè)窩,，而到了1983年陳鴻儀也新婚居住在這里，這間僅有20多平米的石庫(kù)門客堂間里還有父母和哥哥成家后的房間,，為了提高空間的利用率不得不在室內(nèi)搭了閣樓,，甚至于在灶批間（廚房）里也搭了一間臥室，當(dāng)初上海人室內(nèi)的擁擠程度現(xiàn)在都沒法想象,，他們家和我家一樣,，被稱之為“房間”的實(shí)際上都是用布簾子隔開的空間。 直到他姐姐后來由房管所按照困難戶分配了隔壁252弄華順里一個(gè)亭子間,，陳鴻儀也在1985年由單位分配了南京西路重華新邨一個(gè)亭子間,，這里的空間才稍稍有所緩和,。 其實(shí)上世紀(jì)九十年代末大中里的動(dòng)遷就被提上議事日程，也許是由于周正毅案件的因素,，一直拖到2006年,，陳鴻儀的哥哥一直留守到動(dòng)遷，而此時(shí)他父親2003年已經(jīng)離世,，動(dòng)遷補(bǔ)償款又少了一份,，當(dāng)時(shí)是按照三口之家拿了動(dòng)遷款，他哥哥自己到萬里小區(qū)購(gòu)買了商品房才解決住房問題,。 在大中里周邊的名人譜上據(jù)傳有過老毛的阿弟居住在23號(hào),，曾及時(shí)地躲避了追捕，這需要專門研究的專家來考證了,。 大中里還曾居住過專治跌打損傷的名家石筱山,，琵琶演奏家劉德海，石門一路對(duì)馬路沿家房子有著名舞蹈表演藝術(shù)家,，第一代芭蕾舞“白毛女”飾演者石鐘琴,。 據(jù)澎湃記者的一篇采訪報(bào)道上記載，石鐘琴家住在石門一路279號(hào),，1960年，15歲的她讀高一,。她每天到新閘路五四中學(xué)上學(xué),，來回路過石門一路333號(hào)。1960年3月18日這天她發(fā)現(xiàn)這里熱鬧,，進(jìn)出人多,，感到好奇，新成立的上海市舞蹈學(xué)校在此招生,，（這是上海滬劇院和上海合唱團(tuán)所在地）,。她獨(dú)自一人進(jìn)去參加了面試，居然直接被錄取,，于是她在這里走進(jìn)了舞蹈的殿堂,。
左側(cè)箭頭就是石門一路279號(hào)世界藥房，可以看出當(dāng)時(shí)的三開間門面,。 我們現(xiàn)在熱衷于講述張園里面的故事,，往往忽略了石門一路曾經(jīng)的商業(yè)布局，實(shí)際上歷史上石門一路沿街部分十分興旺,，石門一路279號(hào)就是石鐘琴父親開設(shè)的“世界藥房”,，從老地圖上可以看到足有三開間。
“看懂上?！笔占岁P(guān)于同孚路的老照片,，這是29號(hào)“萬昌地毯”,。 新媒體“看懂上海”在關(guān)于石門一路的介紹中如是說：石門一路,，南起延安中路接瑞金一路,，經(jīng)大沽路、威海路,、吳江路,，北迄南京西路接石門二路，長(zhǎng)791米,。民國(guó)三年的《上海市區(qū)域北市圖》上已見此路,，名為同孚路，英文名音譯過來是“宴芝路”,，可見此路應(yīng)筑于1914年以前,。1934年，更名為正陽路,；1945年,，更名為中正北一路；1950年更為今名,。 在上世紀(jì)二三十年代,，石門一路沿街已有不少成衣鋪、童裝店,、裁縫鋪,。30年代，康紀(jì),、永泰等內(nèi)衣店有了名氣,，這幾家內(nèi)衣制作工藝考究，式樣新穎,，頗受中外顧客歡迎,。40年代初，這條路上服飾店增至90家,，占全路商店70%,。鼎盛時(shí)期，在外國(guó)人里曾有“未到過宴芝路不能算到過上海”之說,。 抗日戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)勝利后,，內(nèi)衣業(yè)衰落，時(shí)裝業(yè)發(fā)展,，原先的內(nèi)衣店改營(yíng)婦女時(shí)裝,，知名的有金泰、高云昌,、楊榮記,、康福等,，以及亞麗童裝店。解放初,，時(shí)裝店改營(yíng)人民裝,、列寧裝、中山裝,。1956年后,，商業(yè)網(wǎng)點(diǎn)調(diào)整，石門一路成為綜合性商業(yè)街,。 大中里周邊還有一段重要的弄堂記憶就是管道煤氣的安裝,，由于1971年3月經(jīng)市委批準(zhǔn)，同意建造上海彩色電視中心,，選址在大中里東側(cè)的南京西路651號(hào)（現(xiàn)廣電大樓）,。因?yàn)閾?dān)心煤球爐產(chǎn)生的煙霧和有害氣體會(huì)影響電視信號(hào)的傳送，于是在1973年電視臺(tái)落成之前迅速地給這一片區(qū)安裝了管道煤氣,。
石門一路302弄2006年動(dòng)遷前的狀態(tài)
2006年12月份已經(jīng)可以從石門一路336弄通往吳江路的弄堂口看到吳江路美食街的盛況,。
石門一路336弄2006年動(dòng)遷前的狀態(tài)
大中里弄堂口，過街樓上有黃山茶林場(chǎng)一隊(duì)的衛(wèi)生員李淑云,。2008年2月弄堂北側(cè)部分門面已經(jīng)封住了,。 在石門一路周邊曾經(jīng)有我不少熟悉的朋友，他們有居住在大中里過街樓上的李淑云（原來連隊(duì)衛(wèi)生員）,，大中里弄堂深處的陳珠菁,，車隊(duì)里的老同事焦根榮應(yīng)該是住在石門一路234弄3號(hào)（華順里一弄，弄堂口是大餅攤）,，車隊(duì)里還有老同事徐天錚原來也居住在石門一路262弄華順里13號(hào)。徐家在華順里也小有名氣,，當(dāng)時(shí)祖孫三代同堂,，徐天錚是“天”字輩?！疤臁弊州呌幸晃恢匾娜宋锞褪切焯戾P的堂哥徐天利,，他15歲獲上海市青年會(huì)個(gè)人賽冠軍。1957,、1958年獲全國(guó)賽第6名,。1959年起改弈國(guó)際象棋，1965年戰(zhàn)勝蘇聯(lián)大師希波夫,，是中國(guó)國(guó)際象棋界的重要先驅(qū)者之一,。1985年獲國(guó)際象棋大師稱號(hào)，1988年獲亞象聯(lián)頒布的象棋國(guó)際大師稱號(hào),，是中國(guó)最負(fù)盛名的弈林“雙槍將”,。
網(wǎng)上徐天利的照片
目前改造施工中的張家花園 由于石門一路上周邊的商業(yè)氛圍很好,，生活設(shè)施齊全,，所以這一片的居民活動(dòng)的空間基本上都在附近，孩子們偶爾會(huì)到對(duì)面的張家花園里去玩,，在陳鴻儀的感覺上張家花園當(dāng)時(shí)人少,，比較神秘，從建筑層次上來講要比大中里高,。
“看懂上?！笔占降拇笾欣锊鸱窟^程中的俯視圖 總體來說大中里及這一側(cè)的弄堂居民基本上是以小業(yè)主和中產(chǎn)階級(jí)為主，而在他的同學(xué)中邱公館的后代顯然屬于佼佼者,，同學(xué)們都知道他家是“吃定息”的,。 接下來介紹朋友陳鴻儀的經(jīng)歷，陳鴻儀是上海的馬戲團(tuán)的一級(jí)演員（猴子和猩猩的馴獸師）,，他是黃山茶林場(chǎng)一隊(duì)的幸運(yùn)兒,，也是一隊(duì)的榮幸，他1971年11月下鄉(xiāng),，1973年就被新成立的上海馬戲團(tuán)招生錄?。ㄍ瑯愉浫〉倪€有薛文毛），通過20多年的奮斗在2008年才達(dá)到一級(jí)演員的稱號(hào),，這都是他平時(shí)嚴(yán)于律己刻苦訓(xùn)練的成果,。他的太太王蘇華也是馬戲團(tuán)的馴獸師，當(dāng)時(shí)帶著狗狗們表演的節(jié)目也深受觀眾的喜愛,。
當(dāng)時(shí)陳鴻儀的演出場(chǎng)景
當(dāng)時(shí)他太太王蘇華的演出場(chǎng)景,，有些還是同臺(tái)演出。 1973年上海文藝界按照“旗手”指示,，為了對(duì)外文化交流的需求來設(shè)立馬戲團(tuán),，當(dāng)時(shí)上海并沒有馬戲團(tuán)，但是有上海雜技團(tuán),，當(dāng)時(shí)的上海雜技團(tuán)分為演出一隊(duì)和演出二隊(duì),。這一次新組建的上海馬戲團(tuán)里都需要新招收演員，當(dāng)時(shí)招收演員的評(píng)判標(biāo)準(zhǔn),，即當(dāng)過兵或下過鄉(xiāng)兩年以上經(jīng)歷的為優(yōu)先考慮,，于是上海文藝團(tuán)體都喜歡到同屬于上海市郊農(nóng)場(chǎng)的茶林場(chǎng)來招收新演員，陳鴻儀恰好屬于這一標(biāo)準(zhǔn)范疇內(nèi),，屬于上海最早的馬戲團(tuán)演員,。他的被招生也給其他留在農(nóng)場(chǎng)的職工帶來了希望，所以在當(dāng)時(shí)他在上海馬戲團(tuán)的演出或出國(guó)演出都會(huì)成為我們連隊(duì)的熱點(diǎn)新聞,。
石門一路南京西路南側(cè)太古里2014年7月施工時(shí)的狀態(tài),。
大中里和石門一路已經(jīng)今非昔比,，“太古里”在改造完了大中里后又拿下了對(duì)面張園的項(xiàng)目，早年熙熙攘攘的石門一路將會(huì)是高樓林立的景象,，社會(huì)在發(fā)展,，城市在改變，這里的人群也在改變,，本文僅在記錄曾經(jīng)的一段歷史,，一段曾經(jīng)居住于此的原住民的記憶,。
延伸閱讀,，百度：大中里是1925年顏料商奚鶴年以其妻劉蓮仙的陪嫁地產(chǎn)，在此投資興建房屋,。因?yàn)楫?dāng)時(shí)在華的帝國(guó)主義侵略者多以“大英”,、“大日本”自稱其國(guó)，故業(yè)主即以“大中”命名此弄,，表示“大中華”之意,。舊式里弄?？偱獙挸?，各支弄排列整齊,，有磚木結(jié)構(gòu)二層房屋111幢,，建筑面積14699平方米,。
2006年的大中里已經(jīng)開始拉橫幅了,，預(yù)示著動(dòng)遷開始了。 大中里的西側(cè)為石門一路（同孚路Yates Road也稱宴芝路）,，是上海1920和1930年代高尚時(shí)裝街,。 2002年,，留學(xué)歸國(guó)的舒浩侖得知“大中里”要拆遷的消息,，扛起攝像機(jī)拍下了一部關(guān)于“大中里”,、關(guān)于石庫(kù)門文化的人文紀(jì)錄片,，取名《鄉(xiāng)愁》。……
大中里主弄兩側(cè) 6點(diǎn)之后,，安靜的“大中里”頓像蘇醒了一般,，熱鬧起來,。這片石庫(kù)門布局非常整齊，從空中俯視,，分弄與主弄的排列像是一個(gè)橫過來的“豐”字,。解放前就搬來這里的老人說，這是英國(guó)人提高效率的方式,，把弄堂造得筆直,，治安人員一眼就能望到底。
按推算當(dāng)時(shí)拍到的這個(gè)小孩現(xiàn)在應(yīng)該已經(jīng)20多歲了,。 說“大中里”是個(gè)中西合璧的“混血兒”并不為過,。1925年，“大中里”所在的靜安區(qū)是英租界,，作為一個(gè)英國(guó)房地產(chǎn)商的開發(fā)項(xiàng)目,，這片石庫(kù)門里弄也因此擁有了西式風(fēng)格的雕花門楣、聯(lián)排別墅式的布局,。英國(guó)開發(fā)商深諳中國(guó)人的居住習(xí)慣,，于是每一棟石庫(kù)門都是傳統(tǒng)江南民居的翻版：天井、前后客堂,、前后廂房,、亭子間和曬臺(tái)。
Do you still remember Shimen Yilu and Dazhongli? Some time ago, I wrote about the disappearing Xinhua Lane on Shimen Yilu. I have always been concerned about Dazhongli, which once existed on Shimen Yilu, as it was the place where I first photographed the land slated for demolition. It also housed many of my farming friends and colleagues. Recently, I managed to get in touch with Chen Hongyi, who had long lived in this area and had once worked on repairing the land with me. I conducted a systematic interview with him to reminisce about the once vibrant Shikumen architecture in this area. Why did I seek out Chen Hongyi to discuss Shimen Yilu? It all goes back to
our shared experience of working in the countryside. Chen Hongyi and I were
both sent to the Huangshan Chalin Farm in the suburbs of Shanghai as educated
youth in November 1971. We lived in the same "fifth-class warehouse"
and were part of the same work team. When we were repairing the land on the
mountain, we worked on the same plot. Whenever it was nearing mealtime and we
hadn't received the order to stop working, we would start talking about the
delicious food we had eaten in Shanghai. I would talk about the convenience and
delicious food of "Jufu Chang," while Chen Hongyi would talk about
the delicacies on Shimen Yilu. At that time, we were both 17 or 18 years old,
hungry and growing boys. The feeling of hunger and the conversations we had are
unforgettable. When I thought about telling the story of Shimen Yilu, I knew he
was the perfect person to talk to. Chen Hongyi's home was at No. 7, Yongli Lane, Lane 216 of Shimen Yilu,
while Dazhongli was at Lane 214 of Shimen Yilu. It turns out that Yongli Lane,
Lane 216, had its own lane entrance. Later, this lane entrance was turned into
shops, so the residents of this lane would enter and exit from the lane
entrance of Dazhongli, and turning left into Yongli Lane. Interestingly, the door numbers in this lane are all odd numbers, from No.
1 to No. 33, totaling only 17 door numbers. Most of them are single-story,
two-story shikumen buildings, built in 1929. The developer's surname was Yao,
and he lived in the last house of this lane, No. 33. This was the largest
shikumen house with a wing room in this lane. Mr. Yao also invested in Jinxing
Lane, Lane 228 of Shimen Yilu. Interestingly, Jinxing Lane also only has
odd-numbered door numbers, from No. 1 to No. 35. From old maps, it can be seen
that No. 17, 23, 25, and 27 are standard three-wing shikumen buildings, with
some units being larger than those in Yongli Lane. In this area, Dazhongli's buildings are of a higher grade. Careful
examination of old maps reveals the presence of both three-wing and two-wing
shikumen buildings, and the spacing between the buildings in the lane is also
wider. Stepping into the shikumen courtyard gives a sense of grandeur and
spaciousness. With nearly two hundred door numbers, this entire lane was very
well-known in Shanghai, representing almost all the residential areas on the
east side of Shimen Yilu. At that time, as long as you told a tricycle driver
to go to Dazhongli, they would definitely not get lost. Dazhongli is a bustling and well-connected alleyway, with access to Qinghai
Road to the east, Baoru Fang to the south, and a direct route to Wujiang Road
through Tianle Fang to the north. (During a previous event with
"Understanding Shanghai," a teacher provided an important piece of
information: the engineer Jiang, who was then the deputy director of the
Shanghai Institute of Electrical Engineering, lived in Tianle Fang after his
marriage.) Chen Hongyi's family resided in a single open-room shikumen building at
Yongli Lane, which, in terms of architectural grade, was slightly inferior to
Dazhongli. This difference may have been due to variations in investment. His
family's ancestral roots were in Wenzhou, and his grandfather was a head chef
in a church. They had six children, and Chen Hongyi's father, in particular,
had a large and prosperous family. His father was skilled in shoemaking and
opened a shoe store on Huaihai Middle Road (at No. 400, New Asia Shoe Store).
This establishment, located to the west of "Fada Automobile Company,"
later became "Huaiguojiu" and was demolished during the construction
of the elevated bridge. The current location at No. 400 should be beneath the
pedestrian bridge on the east side of the north-south elevated highway, near
the Xingchen Bank. Chen Hongyi's family were original residents who moved in after the
completion of Yongli Lane. His father, along with his grandfather and
grandmother, lived together in this place. His grandfather lived in the wing
room, his grandmother upstairs, and the rest of the family downstairs. They
rented their home, and because they had been paying rent since the Republican
era, the rent remained at just over three yuan, continuing until the reform and
opening up period. Chen Hongyi was the youngest of the family, the ninth child. His older
brothers ventured out to different places at different times, causing
fluctuations in the household's population. The most crowded period was when
his sister, after getting married, had to retreat to her maternal home due to
lack of housing. By 1983, Chen Hongyi, newly married, also lived in this place,
a single-room shikumen building of just over 20 square meters, along with his
parents and his brother's family. In order to optimize space utilization, they
had to build a loft inside and even set up a bedroom in the kitchen. The level
of crowding in Shanghai homes at that time is hard to imagine now. Similar to
my own family, their so-called "rooms" were actually spaces separated
by cloth curtains. It wasn't until later, when his sister was allocated a wing room in Huashun
Lane, No. 252, by the housing management office, and in 1985 when Chen Hongyi
was assigned a wing room in Chonghua Xincun on Nanjing West Road by his unit,
that the living space slightly eased. In fact, the relocation of Dazhongli was put on the agenda in the late
1990s, possibly due to the Zhou Zhengyi case. However, it was continuously
delayed until 2006. Chen Hongyi's brother stayed behind until the relocation,
while their father had passed away in 2003, resulting in a reduced share of the
relocation compensation. At that time, the compensation was based on a
three-person household, and his brother solved the housing problem by
purchasing a commercial property in Wanli District. In the vicinity of Dazhongli, there are rumored to have been notable
figures, such as the younger brother of Chairman Mao, who reportedly resided at
No. 23 and managed to evade pursuit in a timely manner, although this requires
verification by experts. Dazhongli was also home to renowned individuals such as the expert in
treating injuries from falls, Shi Xiaoshan, the pipa player Liu Dehai, and the
renowned dancer and performer of the leading role in the first generation
ballet "The White Haired Girl," Shi Zhongqin, whose house was located
on the street of Shimen Yilu. According to an interview report by a reporter from The Paper, Shi Zhongqin
lived at No. 279, Shimen Yilu. In 1960, at the age of 15, she was in her first
year of high school. Every day, she walked to and from the New Zhabei Road No.
54 Middle School, passing by No. 333 on Shimen Yilu. On March 18, 1960, she
noticed a lively atmosphere there, with many people coming and going, and out
of curiosity, she found that the newly established Shanghai Dance School was
recruiting students there (this was the location of the Shanghai Opera House
and the Shanghai Choir). She went in for an interview alone and was
unexpectedly admitted, thus embarking on her journey into the realm of dance. While we are currently enthusiastic about sharing stories from Zhang
Garden, we often overlook the significance of Shimen Yilu. In reality, the
historical street along Shimen Yilu was quite prosperous, with No. 279 being
the location of "World Pharmacy," established by Shi Zhongqin's
father, as evidenced by old maps showing its substantial size. According to the introduction by the new media "Understanding
Shanghai" regarding Shimen Yilu: Shimen Yilu starts from Yan'an Middle
Road, connects to Ruijin First Road, passes through Dagou Road, Weihai Road,
Wujiang Road, and extends north to Nanjing West Road, connecting to Shimen
Erlu, with a length of 791 meters. This road was already present in the North
City Map of Shanghai in the third year of the Republic of China, named Tongfu
Road, with the English transliteration being "Yanzhi Road,"
indicating that the road was likely built before 1914. In 1934, it was renamed
Zhengyang Road; in 1945, it was renamed Zhongzheng North First Road; and in
1950, it was given its current name. In the 1920s and 1930s, there were already numerous clothing stores,
children's clothing shops, and tailors along Shimen Yilu. In the 1930s, stores
such as Kangji and Yongtai gained renown for their lingerie, which featured
exquisite craftsmanship and innovative styles, garnering favor from both
Chinese and foreign customers. By the early 1940s, the number of clothing
stores on this street had increased to 90, accounting for 70% of all shops on
the street. At its peak, there was a saying among foreigners that "one
cannot claim to have been to Shanghai without visiting Yanzhi Road." After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japan, the lingerie
industry declined, and the fashion industry flourished. The former lingerie
stores transitioned to women's fashion, with well-known names such as Jintai,
Gaoyunchang, Yang Rongji, Kangfu, and the Alit children's clothing store. After
the liberation, the fashion stores shifted to selling people's clothing, Lenin
suits, and Sun Yat-sen suits. After 1956, there was a reorganization of
commercial establishments, and Shimen Yilu became a comprehensive commercial
street. The vicinity of Dazhongli holds an important memory of the installation of
gas pipelines. In March 1971, with the approval of the Municipal Committee, the
construction of the Shanghai Color Television Center was agreed upon, and the
site was chosen at 651 Nanjing West Road (now the Radio and Television
Building) on the east side of Dazhongli. Concerned that the smoke and harmful
gases from coal stoves might affect the transmission of television signals, gas
pipelines were swiftly installed in this area before the completion of the
television station in 1973. In the vicinity of Shimen Road, I had several familiar friends. Among them
were Li Shuyun, who lived in an upper-level flat in Dazhongli, and Chen
Zhujing, who resided deep within the alleys of Dazhongli. Another acquaintance,
Jiao Genrong, a former colleague from the fleet, likely lived at No. 3, Lane
234, Shimen Road (Hua Shun Lane 1, with a large pancake stall at the entrance).
Furthermore, another former colleague from the fleet, Xu Tianzheng, used to
reside at No. 13, Hua Shun Lane 262, Shimen Road. The Xu family was quite
renowned in Hua Shun Lane, where three generations lived together. Xu Tianzheng
belonged to the "Tian" generation. Notably, a significant figure
within the "Tian" generation was Xu Tianli, Xu Tianzheng's cousin, who
won the Shanghai Youth Association Individual Championship at the age of 15. He
ranked 6th in the national competition in 1957 and 1958. Starting in 1959, he
switched to playing international chess and in 1965, he defeated the Soviet
master, Spassky, making him one of the pioneers in the Chinese international
chess community. He was awarded the title of International Chess Grandmaster by
the Asian Chess Federation in 1988, and was one of the most renowned figures in
the Chinese chess world as part of the "Double Gun Generals." Similarly, Wang Jinbao, a fellow resident of the "Wudeng
Warehouse," lived in an upper-level flat at Lane 272, Hua Shun Lane 4.
Additionally, a former colleague, Zheng Shuliang, lived behind the "Lu
Gaojian" delicatessen on the side of Wei Hai Wei Road. Due to the vibrant commercial atmosphere in the vicinity of Shimen Road,
the residents of this area largely engaged in activities nearby. Occasionally,
children would play in the nearby Zhangjia Garden. In Chen Hongyi's perception,
at that time, Zhangjia Garden was sparsely populated and had a mysterious aura,
and architecturally, it was taller than Dazhongli. In general, the residents of Dazhongli and its surroundings were
predominantly small business owners and middle-class individuals. Among his
classmates, the descendants of the Qiu Mansion evidently belonged to the elite,
as it was widely known that their family lived off "fixed interest." Next, I would like to introduce the experiences of my friend Chen Hongyi.
Chen Hongyi was a first-class performer (trainer of monkeys and chimpanzees) at
the Shanghai Circus. He was fortunate to be part of the Huangshan Tea Forest
team and was considered an honor for the team. In November 1971, he went to the
countryside, and in 1973, he was recruited by the newly established Shanghai
Circus (alongside Xue Wenmao). It took him over 20 years of hard work and
dedication to achieve the title of first-class performer in 2008, a result of
his rigorous self-discipline and diligent training. His wife, Wang Suhua, was
also an animal trainer at the circus, and the performances with their dogs were
beloved by the audience. In 1973, the Shanghai cultural community, following the directives of the
"vanguard," established the circus for the purpose of cultural
exchange abroad. At that time, Shanghai did not have a circus, so a new circus
was formed within the Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe. The criteria for selection at
that time prioritized those who had served in the military or had experience in
the countryside for more than two years. Therefore, Shanghai cultural
organizations preferred to recruit new performers from the Tea Forest, which
belonged to the suburban farms of Shanghai. Chen Hongyi happened to fall within
this category, and his recruitment brought hope to other workers who remained
at the farm. Therefore, his performances in the Shanghai Circus and overseas
tours at that time became a hot topic in our unit. Dazhongli and Shimen Road have changed significantly over the years. After
the transformation of Dazhongli, "Taikoo Li" acquired the project
opposite Zhang Garden. The bustling Shimen Road of the past will soon be
transformed into a scene of towering skyscrapers. As society develops and the
city changes, the population here is also changing. This article merely records
a segment of history, the memories of the original residents who once lived
here. For further reading, you can search on Baidu: In 1925, the pigment merchant
Xi Henian, using his wife Liu Lianxian's dowry property, invested in the
construction of houses in this area. Since at that time, imperialist aggressors
in China often referred to themselves as "Great Britain" or
"Great Japan," the owner named this alley "Dazhongli,"
representing the idea of "Great China." It is an old-style alley with
a spacious layout, consisting of 111 two-story brick and wood buildings with a
total area of 14,699 square meters. The western side of Dazhongli faces Shimen Road (also known as Yates Road
or Yanzhi Road), which was a fashionable street for high-end clothing in
Shanghai in the 1920s and 1930s. In 2002, Shu Haolun, who had returned from studying abroad, learned about
the impending demolition of Dazhongli. He picked up a camera and made a
documentary about "Dazhongli" and the Shikumen culture, titled
"Homesickness." After 6 o'clock, the quiet Dazhongli suddenly comes alive. The layout of this Shikumen is very orderly, and when viewed from above, the arrangement of the alleys and the main alley resembles the shape of a horizontal "豐" character. Elderly residents who moved here before the liberation say that this was a way for the British to increase efficiency, making the alleys straight so that security personnel could see all the way to the end at a glance. 我還寫過與此文相關(guān)的：#老壽眼中的上海#寫在邱公館開放日,、#老壽讀圖#第190集邱公館還是查公館,、#老壽帶儂兜馬路#石門一路上最后一處石庫(kù)門弄堂也要消失了。 |
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