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與大部分徽州古村落一樣，西遞也是依山傍水而建,，河水微瀾,，倒映著村頭的剌史牌樓，也蕩漾著歲月泛起的層層的漣漪,。這剌史牌樓是為胡文光衣錦還鄉(xiāng)樹k立的，為少見“樓閣式”牌樓，文革時期朱紅毛筆的大字標語至今仍在石梁之上,，看來還沒到可以完全抹去這段歷史的時候，理應警示世人莫失莫忘,。過了巍峨的牌樓,，便進村了。

西遞屬黟縣,，盛產深色青石,，所以整個小村由規(guī)整又不造作的青石鋪路，看上去整潔又平緩,，踩上去帶著溫潤的涼意,，即使是歷代的修補也依然是以石補石，令古樸之風得以延續(xù),。青石路在古代屬于較為奢侈的路面,，所以由此可見西遞在古代的富庶。其實大多徽州古村落都如此,，有出門在外徽商的經濟基礎,，有在家寒窗苦讀出人頭地的官宦的衣錦還鄉(xiāng)，這商政的共同興旺成就了這些名不見經傳的徽州小村當年的繁華,。

西遞村以胡姓人家為主,，明代遷自婺源，而婺源的胡姓則原本姓李,，是唐昭宗的后代避難躲于婺源胡姓人家,，遂改胡姓,。所以村里最壯觀的建筑當屬胡氏宗祠——敬愛堂。敬愛堂內有個“孝”字,，相傳為朱熹手書,。此字確實蘊涵著程朱理學的精髓，字上半部右為供手作揖謙恭孝敬之樣,，字上半部左則為尖嘴猴腮的造型,，意寓孝敬者為人，忤逆不孝者為畜生,。這“孝悌忠信禮儀廉恥”的為人準則便在如此一個封閉的村落代代相傳,，而當整個中華民族都將此當成封建糟粕予以破除之后，它依然掛在了這里,。今天,，當越來越多的人意識到在學西方學成四不象后，應理性回歸到中國傳統(tǒng)道德觀了,，而其實在徽州的許多地方,，它便一直默默存在著。

村里的古居多為明清時代所建,，保存完好,，代表著古徽州的樣子。大門上方鋪滿了華麗大氣的石雕,，高高的青石門檻將地氣緊鎖于家中,，不輕易溢走。前廳是“四水歸堂”的天井,，一樣的苔痕碧綠,，一樣的高聳嚴峻。大廳的八仙桌與太師椅后掛著蒼勁又寓意十足的中堂與對聯,，在條案上則是東瓶西鏡,，中央是自鳴鐘，寓意終生平靜,。其實即使是如今的婺源新區(qū),，許多家庭也依然如此擺設。廳堂左右有四季長聯或書法,，上方橫梁上則有燕子窩,，每年春天它的主人會銜著春泥回來這里。而這四周的窗欞與雀替滿是雕梁畫棟的紋理,，那時生活在這里的人們一定充滿著詩情畫意的夢想,。

值得一提的還有大夫第，這是清初的官宦故居,，地處巷口的瘦高型建筑,，大門上有“作退一步想”的小篆,。因地處臨村街墻，為方便過往村民行車走路,，建筑特意向內退了一角,，這正是“退一步海闊天空”的境地吧。二樓懸空挑出一座玲瓏雅致的亭閣式建筑,，有人稱其為拋繡球的“繡樓”,，我倒不這么認為，畢竟在如此封閉又狹窄的空間里,，人與人之間應該都是熟識的,，根本用不著通過拋繡球來擇婿。登亭遠望,，才明白它真正的作用應該是如亭上的牌匾所寫的“山市”,。在春暖之際，映山紅如血如霞開滿山谷,，在此遠眺,，頓生“山花若市”之感。而此刻,，遠山青蔥，炊煙渺渺,，鴛瓦粉墻,，青石如黛，好一個桃花源里人家,。

當煊赫風光的古徽州成為一個歷史名詞時,，小小的西遞卻承載著這么多古徽州的模樣。這斑駁陸離的粉墻,，劫后余生的牌樓,，空曠殘敗的祠堂都凝成一個可以觸摸得到的符號。這深厚的文化底蘊,，在經歷沉默后一如“山花若市”般燦爛如虹,，隨意的一個觸碰，指尖便可傳達出那個繁華徽州的模樣,，且愈來愈清晰,。

Like most ancient villages of the Huizhou region, Xidi was built near the mountain and by the river. The water ripples quietly, reflecting the Memorial Archway of Prefectural Governor located at the entrance to the village, swinging dimples of time and tide. The Memorial Archway of Prefectural Governor was built for Hu Wenguang when he returned home after acquiring great fame; it was built in the “pavilion style”, which is rarely seen. The characters written with a vermilion writing brush during the Cultural Revolution period are still on the stone girder, which seems to remind people that the history remains and should not be forgotten. Passing through the towering archway, we enter into the village.

Xidi is in Yi County, which is rich in bluestone, so the roads in the whole village are paved with bluestones that are structured yet not artificial, granting them a neat and gentle look. Stepping on the road and you will feel a wisp of mild and humid cool. The repairs over the roads in the past dynasties were made using the same kind of stones so that the primitive simplicity remains unchanged. Paving road with blue stones was luxurious in the ancient period, and from which we can infer that Xidi was rather rich at that time. As a matter of fact, most of the Huizhou ancient villages were like this at that time as Huizhou merchants enjoyed business prosperity away from home and many government officials returned home after acquiring recognition through hard study. The combination of a thriving commerce and politics had prospered the then unknown Huizhou villages.

Xidi developed mainly with the Hu surnamed families whose ancestors moved here from Wuyuan during the Ming Dynasty. Originally, the Hu families at Wuyuan were surnamed Li, but changed it into Hu when the descendants of Tang Emperor Zhaozong (867-904) moved to Hu’s family of Wuyuan for refuge. As a result, the most spectacular architecture in the village is Respect Hall - Clan Temple of the Hu Family, where there is the character “孝”（filial piety）in the hall; it is said to be written by Zhu Xi (famous poet, educator, ideologist, etc. in Southern Song Dynasty). This character indeed conveys the essence of Neo-Confucianism, whose right part of upper half looks like bowing indicating humility and filial piety, while the left part of upper half looks cunning and crafty which means the filial ones are deemed as a person and disobedient ones are like beasts. The value of loyalty and filial piety, sense of propriety, justice, honesty and honor was carried on as a behavior criterion from generation to generation, and even when the whole Chinese nation regarded this as the feudal dross to destroy, it still hung here. Nowadays, as more and more realize that learning from the west is a dead end, it is time for us to return to our rational traditional moral views which, however, have always remained the same quietly at many places of Huizhou.

Most ancient constructions were built during Ming and Qing Dynasties in the village, and they are well preserved and can represent the ancient appearance of Huizhou. Above the door are full of magnificent stone carvings and the high threshold of bluestone keeps the earth qi at home from flowing out. The square patio used for collecting the rain dropping from the roof (namely Sishui Guitang) in the antechamber has the same green moss and towering appearance. The central scroll and couplets hanging behind the square table and old-fashioned wooden armchairs in the hall look vigorous, conveying profound enlightenment. On the console table, there are vases and mirrors placed in accordance with ancient Chinese etiquette (the vases shall be placed on the east side while the mirrors on the west), with a striking clock in the middle, meaning a lifelong calmness. Actually, many families would arrange their furnishings like this in the modern Wuyuan. On each side of the hall lies four-season long couplet or calligraphy and on the beam there is a swallow’s nest whose host would come back every spring holding mud in its mouth. The window lattices and decorated brackets are full of carved beams and painted rafters, and people who lived here in those ancient times must have been filled with poetic dreams.

There is another place worth mentioning; Dafu Mansion, which served as the former residence of government officials of the early Qing Dynasty. It is a lanky architecture at an alley entrance with small seal script of “On the Second Thought” on its gate. Being near the street, the mansion was built a few steps farther from the street to make it convenient for villagers and vehicles; perhaps this is the philosophy of “One step back, and your world becomes larger.” An exquisite and elegant pavilion-like construction is suspended on the second floor. Some call it the “Embroidered Ball Building”, however, I do not think so. Because people must have been familiar with one another in such a closed and narrow space, and there was no need to select a husband by throwing the embroidered ball. You would not know its true function until you ascend the pavilion above, overlooking; and when it comes warm in spring, the valley is full of blood-red azaleas, then one can get the view of flowers on the mountain as the words of “Mountain Mirage” written on the plaque hanging on the pavilion. The verdant distant hills, rising green smoke, paring tiles and pale walls, as well as the bluestones, all together they have constituted such a beautiful ideal picture.

Although the glamorous ancient Huizhou has become a historic word, the small Xidi bears much of the same appearance of ancient Huizhou. The variegated pale walls, surviving memorial archways, and wrecked ancestral halls have simply solidified a touchable symbol. The profound cultural deposit is as glorious as the “Mountain Mirage” after remaining silent; and with simply a touch, the prosperous ancient Huizhou would appear on the fingertip, getting clearer and clearer.